kylmbing

switching the blog over to sendit.tv

2008-07-27T22:48:00.000-07:00

I've got sendit.tv just kind of sitting around collecting dust and "kylmbing" is too hard to pronounce and remember. So I'm moving my blog to www.sendit.tv. I'll keep kylmbing around, but all the new stuff will be on SendIt .

Donner, Party of 4

2008-05-19T11:14:00.000-07:00

Saturday marked the Goodhew clan's first roped climbing outdoors since Lander joined the team a few years ago. We had a blast climbing at Snowshed and Star Wall. We climbed as a party of three with Dylan, Michele and I traded off baby-sitting duties and we had a great time playing in the snow and small run-off streams around the crags. Other highlights include Lander placing his first piece (#1 Camalot i think, it was bomber)while standing on the ground of course.

There is a strong EDGE signal up there so I did some live broadcasting from the crag. Of course the quality isn't great, but considering the network, it's not too bad. Here are some samples. Lander playing with some gear Star Wall, someone working Bronco or Taste the Pain

The crux of the trip was driving home. First, Ikeda's was closed much to our disappointment, and secondly, Michele and I were both exhausted and could barely stay awake.

Joaquin Woodie Guide

2008-05-09T18:03:00.000-07:00

Straight Up

2008-04-27T23:14:00.000-07:00

While cleaning out the closet I found this old Straight Up Climbing Team hat. I'm not even sure where it came from, nor can I remember who was on the Straight Up Climbing Team, except maybe Timy Fairfield. Anyway, Straight Up was a climbing hold company, I'm not sure what ever happened to them. They made good holds back in the day, I even have an old one on the woodie.

Jungle Fever (aka hardest V8 ever)

2008-04-24T09:23:00.001-07:00

After a mere 29 days and 200+ attempts, Jungle Fever is finally done. I think most people consider JF your average V8, but for some reason, I found this one harder than any other V8 I've done. Weird. Anyway, I had the livestream running and caught the ascent here . The best part of the video is listening to Lander cheer me on.

Trying to do the List

2008-04-02T17:44:00.000-07:00

Here's an incredibly boring video (I was just testing our mobile livestreaming app) of my Tuesday night session on the woodie. I was trying to complete a dozen of my moderate problems. I came close, but missed out on a few. Here are the problems I was trying.

Center Line
Right Cross link to Center Line
Rainy Day Route
Gordon Whitefoot
Fibo
Sprinkler
Dodge
Old Yeller
Roof Wart
Choose the Right
3.2 Beer
Tabou EZ

Check out SendIt.tv

2008-03-25T11:37:00.000-07:00

I've created a new blog called Send It . The new blog takes full advantage of some new features from Kyte, including a fully integrated Facebook application. I'm trying to get people to post their climbing videos and photos there. Check it out, and add the Facebook application if you're on Facebook.

I'll keep using kylmbing as my personal (mostly boring) blog of day-to-day climbing stuff, and put the interesting stuff on Send It.

Valley Report 2-16-08

2008-02-18T15:56:00.001-08:00

02/16/2008
Originally uploaded by donn_goodhew

Kris and I made it out to the Valley on Saturday. The temps were great, even warm for a while. The rock varied wildly from completely soaked, snow and ice packed, or perfect. Here are my observations which are provided without warranty:

Midnight Lightning - soaked, icy mantle, 4' snow bank at the base

Don't MMKYA - soaked at the lip

Cocaine Corner, Blue Suede Shoes, Dominator, Phone Book - all dry

Wine boulder warm-ups - dry but a lot of snow on the ground

Stick It - dry with a standing start on a 4' snowbank!

Ament Arete - dry

Thriller - damp streak, should be dry in a day or two w/o precip

King Cobra - dry

Honor Among Thieves - dry

Ahwanee Area - just drove by, it looked very snowy and unclimbable

Atlantis - climbable, maybe someone cleared the finishing holds?

Heart of Darkness, Across the Tracks - perfect

Happy Climbing!

Soggy weekend

2008-01-25T17:50:00.001-08:00

Avoid the crowds! Climb @ the Joaquin Woodie sat 1 pm

I feel like a Brit today

2008-01-24T14:05:00.001-08:00

It's pouring rain, i just ate curry and i'm training in the cellar tonite. If only i were on the dole.

Baseline finger strength for 2008

2008-01-03T23:30:00.000-08:00

I thought I'd get a baseline finger strength check now so I can compare over the coming months. The protocol was 3 sets of maximum length alternating R-L one arm hangs on 3/4" rounded wood edge on the woodie with 3 minutes rest between each set. The hang durations are pretty short so I used video review and 3 timing trials for each hang to get a decent average value. I suspect noticeable gains will be slow in coming so I won't try this test until mid-year, and once again at the end of the year. Now for the numbers:

Right: 2.95 seconds
Left: 1.87 seconds

I've always known my left is weaker than my right, but these numbers really quantify that discrepancy. Hopefully I can somehow get my left to catch up to my right.

Qik Test

2007-12-26T21:46:00.000-08:00

Here's a little trial of Qik, a video streaming app for mobile phones.

(i moved the player to a more permanent home in the right hand column). I haven't had to chance to stream anything interesting yet, but the technology is pretty cool.

New Old Pusher Systems Tiles

2007-12-19T22:48:00.001-08:00

Pusher
Originally uploaded by donn_goodhew

Disco Mike sent me some old Pusher systems tiles that he had lying around for my systems board. Cool, this will be a great addition to the Joaquin Woodie. Thanks Disco!

Winter is cold. Winter is good.

2007-12-16T22:58:00.000-08:00

Woot! Cold was the word of the day in the Valley. I don't think the puddles in the Camp 4 parking lot ever thawed out today. Anyway, another fine day to boulder. Spent most of my energy on the project (Thriller). Tried a couple different betas for the upper crux with the tall man's deadpoint seeming the most promising. I managed six goes before the skin and muscle began to yield. A weird day with good and bad goes and everything in between (see the video for the good and the bad). That's one thing that's so great about climbing; so many factors go into climbing at one's limit that it's hard or impossible to predict, at least for me.

Complex Training: second session

2007-12-12T21:49:00.001-08:00

2nd workout w/complex protocol last night. Felt better & was able to
complete 4 reps cleanly. Forearms felt _worked_ afterward. Curious to
see if i can notice a gain after the next 2 week stint.

--
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Trying out complex training

2007-12-05T23:41:00.001-08:00

12/05/2007
Originally uploaded by donn_goodhew

I've campused a lot BITD and done plenty of strength training on finger boards, but I've never combined the two in a single workout. After reading about complex training on Eric Horst's site I thought I'd try it out.

Tonight's session was more about sussing out the proper resistance and number of movements which took some trial and error (you can see the video on JW channel. Eventually found a good starting point for the next workout consisting of 8 moves on the systems open hand edge w/30 pounds followed by up every single, down every double on the campus board. BTW, if you need a weight vest for climbing the V-max "basketball" model from weightvest.com is great. It's only 30 lb max capacity but the narrow straps and profile make it excellent for climbing. Expensive, but worth the money compared to a vest that hinders climbing movement.

Well, I'll give this a try on a 2 week-on, 2-off, 2-on schedule and see how it goes.

Prime bouldering season in Yosemite Valley

2007-12-03T23:40:00.000-08:00

Ah, December 1st. Saturday was the coldest day yet in the Valley with temps in the upper 30's all day, maybe 40 at the most in the afternoon. I drove out Friday night so I was there early, warmed-up and projecting before anyone else had even shown up which was really nice. I posted a video of me trying to work out the upper crux on Thriller. Next week I just need to try the straightforward deadpoint method as opposed to the high-foot beta i was messing with on Saturday. Hooked up with Kris and we projected our respective projects for a while, then a brief stop at the End of the Day problem, which I couldn't do at the beginning of the day. Next it was off to Sentinel to polish off Slapshot, but just barely, as you can see in the video posted by Kris. Finally, LeConte, where I managed to sketch through the bottom of Flatline but chicken out on the top. Pity too, as there were tons of pads and good spotters. And finally, the really fun Choclate Bunny which was great to climb so close to the ground after getting spanked on the scary tall Flatline. How long can the good weather hold out?

Ring Toss at the JoaquinWoodie

2007-12-03T19:25:00.001-08:00

Last night did a new prob, Ring Toss V5. More like dwarf toss if you're under 5' 9". Kinda fun with bat finish. Check the video for the sports action.

Thanksgiving Weekend in Yosemite Valley

2007-11-27T10:29:00.000-08:00

Well, another fantastic weekend in the Valley. Michele and I came out sans Lander so we had two full days of climbing. Friday was the usual warm-up at Camp 4, a few goes on Thriller, a nice send of King Cobra by Kris, then off to the Sentinel Boulders. Kris posted a couple videos from Slapshot and some unnamed V5 and I added a vid of Kris on the cool unnamed V5 cave problem.

Saturday was another Camp 4 warm up followed by Cathedral boulders. I posted a video of Michele getting closer on Hexcentric (next time dear!) then off to LeConte for Purple Barrel (another vid from Kris). At this point everyone was exhausted so it was off to Camp 4 to try some easy stuff but we were even too tired for the End of the Day Problem (which seems pretty hard). Until next week...

Tech note

2007-11-21T19:04:00.001-08:00

Today i re-transcoded some of my recent videos from my N95. You may
have noticed the playback would catch the buffering which made for
choppy viewing experience. The problem was that we were not throttling
the bitrate for 3gp or 3gpp files (my N95 vids are 3gp). Now we handle
that case correctly so going forward videos should playback smoothly.
Previously transcoded vids will still suffer the problem, but i
manually fixed the 4 most recent vids on kylmbing channel.

--
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Feeling better on the campus board

2007-11-20T23:38:00.001-08:00

Campus
Originally uploaded by donn_goodhew

Good night at the Joaquin Woodie. Felt much faster on the campus board compared to last week. Still not too quick but the speed will come with a little more time.

Another perfect November weekend in Yosemite Valley

2007-11-19T18:10:00.000-08:00

Oh yeah, it was so nice out in the Valley this weekend. Michele was actually pretty sick so she didn't get to enjoy the weekend to the fullest, but otherwise it was a fantastic weekend. We had a big crew from the East Bay and our friends Mike and Steve from Utah were out for a week so we hooked up with them as well.

The highlight of the weekend was Lyn's ascent of Thriller [V10]. You can scroll back in the show browser of the Kyte player, or here's a direct link. It was great to be there to see Lyn climb this classic. Though the lighting in the video isn't great, the audio captures the excitement and the positive energy during the ascent. Way to go Lyn!

On Sunday a large posse swarmed on the Sentinel boulders, which was our first trip there. We had a great time climbing some of the classics on the B1 boulder. Can't wait to go back there again.

The lowlight of the weekend was Steve's finger injury while climbing The King. Apparently Steve was casually hanging open handed on a decent edge when there was a loud "POP" and that was it. Seems like a pulley ligament, but hopefully Steve will get a real diagnosis and heal up quickly. Bummer!

Anyway I posted a bunch of various random (mostly live) content throughout the weekend when I found good connectivity. Check my flickrstream for some other photos that i didn't post to Kyte. Enjoy.

Tech notes for the geeks: seems like around Camp 4 the signal strength varies dramatically with the terrain/tree cover. El Cap meadow had great coverage though i'm not sure this is always the case. I found little/no coverage at the Cathedral boulders area, and a spotty-at-best signal at the parking for Cathedral boulders. Four mile trail head parking had good coverage. The Cafeteria has consistent full coverage and this is the only place i've been able to upload full size videos. Uploading the 18 mb video of Lyn took about 1 hour! Even at best, the EDGE network in the Valley is slow as hell, the same video in SF on 3G network would take about 10 minutes to upload.

Lyn sends Thriller!

2007-11-17T16:09:00.001-08:00

Yeah! Today Lyn Verinsky climbed Thriller (V10) in Yosemite Valley.
Great ascent to watch; smooth like butter. Look for video later. I'm
blogging this as i sit in the car below middle cathedral while Lander
naps.

--
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Lyn sends Thriller!

2007-11-17T15:25:00.001-08:00

Yes! I'll try to post video tonight.

Another Valley Weekend Eve!

2007-11-16T18:53:00.001-08:00

Yeehaw! Forecast looks great, a bit warm. I'll try to post some live
bouldering videos.

--
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First workout on the new campus board

2007-11-13T22:54:00.001-08:00

The new set up is working out great. Found i am very weak on the board
which is good news as that means i have much to gain from campusing

--
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New Campus Board at the Joaquin Woodie

2007-11-11T20:07:00.000-08:00

Today I built a campus board in the garage. It's a minimal implementation of a campus board but it's enough to do the job. Just a single set of 5 - 16" Medium size Metolious rungs on a 15 degree board (2' X 4'). It's all I could squeeze in to the existing half-assed framing of the garage without moving stuff around. You can see it on the Joaquin Woodie channel.

Purple Barrel, Hexcentric, Christmas Photo

2007-11-10T23:48:00.000-08:00

Another fun day in Yosemite. Posted a few random live videos from around Camp 4 including Isaac? making simple work of Midnight Lightning, second go I believe. Late in the day Kris did the Purple Barrel [V8] which is a cool problem at the Housekeeping boulder. Fun steep moves lead to a tricky mantle top out which Kris managed to suss out in a few goes. It was nearly dark when Kris did it and as such, the video of the start in the cave was really dark so I cut that out from the posted video. In any case, it's a really fun problem on my "get back to" list (yikes, my "get back to" list is getting long).

On Friday, Michele shot a little video of Audrey doing Hexcentric [V7] at the Cathedral boulders, another stellar problem.

And finally, the Goodhew family managed to make the annual "Christmas Card" photo from El Cap Meadow.

Munchkin Lunge

2007-11-08T12:56:00.000-08:00

Posted a video of Michele doing the Munchkin Lunge [V6]. This is probably the greatest problem ever conceived in the history of bouldering. The awe inspiring boulder is just over 6 feet tall and consists of a single move to the top.

Just kidding of course, I guess I'm just bitter that I haven't done the move yet :-)

new name! same stuff!

2007-11-07T14:26:00.000-08:00

I changed the name of my kyte channel from "climbTV" to "kylmbing". There is a real www.climbtv.tv site that looks about to launch, I don't want to confuse the issue with my channel name.

Another beautiful day in Yosemite

2007-11-04T23:00:00.000-08:00

Saturday was beautiful in the Valley. I tried to post up some live bouldering action but I had a weak signal and only managed to use up my entire phone battery in about 2 hours of attempted uploads! Oh well, I was able to capture a video of Paul sending Thriller. So if you're around 6' tall and need some beta, here you go.

Heading to the Valley tonight!

2007-11-02T15:12:00.000-07:00

I'll try to post up some live bouldering from Yosemite tomorrow. Of course, that depends on getting a decent signal. If I can't get a good signal I'll end up posting some photos/video later on Saturday night. So if you're stuck in front of a computer tomorrow, check out the action. Don't forget you can chat live (although i may not always answer as the coverage in the Valley is spotty).

Flatline and the MSG boulder

2007-10-29T11:00:00.000-07:00

This Saturday I was able to capture Lyn Verinsky climbing Flatline at the LeConte area. This is a beautiful classic line and I can't wait to get back and try it again myself. Check it out on climbtv.

On Sunday a fun session with a large posse ensued at the MSG boulder. I had a really strong signal there so i captured a bunch of QuickVids (and also managed to upload the 10MB "abridged" version of Lyn's Flatline ascent).

Tech note: you'll notice some videos are small, short and lower quality while some are larger and much higher quality. The small videos are "QuickVids" which are captured with the kyte J2ME app. The high quality videos are captured with the N95's native camera and then sent up to kyte via the Web Upload feature.

tabou ez

2007-10-26T13:55:00.000-07:00

Posted a new problem on joaquinwoodie last nite. Just an easy V4 pocket problem. The name is a play on "Tabou Zizi" 8a+ at Buoux.

Tech note: i've started using my Nokia N95 to make the videos. The video editing features right on the phone are pretty good, and overall it's easier to edit on the phone and send up the finished product via Web Upload feature directly to kyte. It's actually quicker than using my regular video camera, downloading to the computer, then editing, then upload...plus i can work on the videos while I'm on BART. The N95 rocks!

kris's new problem

2007-10-23T23:46:00.000-07:00

Posted a new problem on joaquinwoodie that Kris did the other night. I still haven't done it, but maybe tomorrow night it'll happen. It's pretty hard, i reckon V8. Kris named it...

how about "kilo-millisecond"... it refers to that fraction of time where you are struggling to lock in your core that feels like forever in your mind!

also posted some one arm pull-up attempts from tonight. I'm getting close to a full pull, but coming out of the hole at the bottom seems far off still.

a little more tweaking

2007-10-22T23:13:00.000-07:00

a few more adjustments to the layout. hopefully get it dialed in soon.

kylmb on

2007-10-15T10:32:00.000-07:00

Let's try a little revamp here...i'll put the players on the right side and add text updates here.

What is this?

2007-06-29T12:14:00.000-07:00

Not sure. Probably a mix of work (software testing) and climbing. We'll see.